Christchurch

I managed to hobble through Christchurch at a snails pace while recovering from Abel Tasman blisters. Although Christchurch is one of New Zealand’s larger cities, the pace suited the city and we managed to find lots of things to do within a few blocks radius from where we were staying.

Speaking of where we were staying, urged by many of our Couch Surfing friends, Miranda and I decided to give it a shot. What is couch surfing? I think Wikipedia describes it well:

“The CouchSurfing Project is the largest hospitality exchange network, with approximately 1.4 million members in 231 countries and territories…read more.”

We connected with Dada, currently studying circus and performing arts, on Couchsurfing and had a great time. He and his school mates rent two next door houses, and people seem to flow freely between them. Everyone was very friendly and interested to hear about where we were from and where we are going.

Close to downtown, we were able to walk everywhere we wanted to go –

Test Kitchen: Rhubarb Strawberry Butter

Rhubarb’s tangy bite marks the beginning of the canning season. Usually I stick to strawberry rhubarb jam, but this year I’m going to branch out to make a shrub and strawberry rhubarb butter. Fruit butters take longer to cook down, but the result is has an amazing texture, pure taste, and significantly less sugar than jam. Shrubs are new to me! They’re an old time vinegar syrup (sweet and tangy!) often mixed with carbonated water or used in mixing drinks – I was inspired by Reclaiming Provincial’s shrub.

It’s too early for fresh strawberries here, but I had one bag left of last years’ whole strawberries in the freezer. If the shrub and butter pass the “test kitchen” with flying colours then I will make a big batch when strawberry season sets in.

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First fresh cut rhubarb from the garden – I’ll get at least a few more cuts from our rhubarb patch this year.rhub3

After cutting the leaves off the stems I used the leaves as a mulch in the rhubarb patch, which will help keep weeds down and moisture in this soil. Rhubarb leaves have a natural toxin in them that suppress other plants’ growth (and will give you an upset tummy if you eat them).

 

Strawberry Rhubarb Butter Recipe:

makes 4-6 half pint jars (8oz)

  • 1 lb rhubarb stalks, chopped
  • 1 lb strawberries, whole
  • 1- 2 cup raw cane sugar (to taste)
  • 1 vanilla bean (optional)
  1. Put strawberries, rhubarb, vanilla bean, and 1 cup of sugar into a slow cooker on medium heat.
  2. Prop open the lid with chop sticks. If you leave the lid closed the steam will condense and drip back into your fruit butter, which will make it very runny.
  3. Cook for 6-8 hours, and check frequently in the first couple of hours – not all slow cookers are made equal, and medium heat may be too hot or too cool.
  4. When you check on the strawberry rhubarb butter, give it a good stir and use a spatula to mix in any that may be caramelizing to the side of the pot. If you leave this to build up eventually it will taste more burnt than caramelized.
  5. Taste test! Is it sweet enough? Do you need that extra 1/2 to 1 cup of sugar? I like to wait until almost the end of the cooking time to decide if I want to add more sugar. This gives the natural fruit sugars enough time to condense while the fruit is cooking down. Add sugar to taste and stir in well.
  6. Now check the consistency. Has it thickened up enough for you? If not, just keep cooking it longer.
  7. Clean and sterilize the half pint jars.
  8. Funnel strawberry rhubarb butter into the jars, and secure lids.
  9. Process in water bath canner for 10minutes.

 

 

The Bay of Plenty

My business partner, Josh, insisted that I visit his best friend’s family if I went near the Bay of Plenty. I’m glad he did because it has been a pleasure staying here my last week in New Zealand. Paula & Cliff have a small organic avocado farm (yes, I am gorging myself) just outside of Tauranga. There son Ben and his girlfriend Amanda have been excellent tour guides – taking me “up the mount” in Mount Manganui, and to a few other near by towns.

Paula & Cliff’s farm has goats, chooks, dogs, and two dairy cows – unsuccessfully impregnated this year, so no milk.

The Coromandel Peninsula

The Pinnacles

After a rollercoaster of a bus ride from Auckland to Thames, I managed to settle into the Sunkist hostel near the seashore. The building is the oldest in Thames, and had a lot of charm. It was eco-friendly too with buckets for kitchen scraps to feed to the pigs, recycling bins, electricity and water saving features, and free-range eggs for sale.

Me in an old Kauri tree

Thames is the gateway to the Pinnacles, which is the mountain range that runs along the middle of the Coromandel Peninsula – obviously I was there for the hiking. I met another Canadian girl and I guy from Germany at the hostel, and we all headed up to the Pinnacles together for a day hike.

GAH! That's steep...

There were plenty of swing bridges, ladders, and steep climbs, but the view from the top was quite spectacular.

View from the top of the Pinnacles

Whitianga

While I was wrapping up at Rainbow Valley Farm, I got an email from a couple living in Whitianga that I had contacted about WWOOFing. They needed help in the garden on their organic cattle ranch. Whitianga (Fit-EEE-anga) is on the other side of the peninsula from Thames. The drive around was beautiful, but a little scary at times. Again, the roads were narrow, windy, and right along the seashore.

View of the ranch from the kitchen window - fruit orchard, and pasture. If you look closely, squint your eyes, and shake your head a little you can see some sheep in the shade under the tree in the field. Everything is a bit dry!

I couldn’t have felt more at home at Jaqui & Rod’s place; they were incredible hosts, and I hope that they come visit Vancouver someday. I spent most of my time at their place working in the garden, but I also got a chance to feed the pigs and chooks, and pick plums in the orchard. January here is like July at home in the garden, so the zucchinis were growing like crazy! Jaqui and I made a really delicious courgette chutney that I can’t wait to make again this summer! Yummy!

A garden gnome must have taken this picture when I wasn't looking.

One of the reasons I was so excited to spend some time in Whitianga was because it is quite close to Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach – two places I wanted to visit. I worked ‘double time’ in the garden for a day, so I could have the next day off to explore the area and check out the beach. Luckily they had an extra bicycle that I could use for the day to get around.

I took the Ferry from Whitianga across the harbour ... to get to the other side. A little bit of a short cut on the way to Cathedral Cove.

Emily <3 Fern Trees! This wa along the path to Cathedral Cove - so lovely and cool to walk in.

The Beach at Cathedral Cove - a bit busy for my taste, but the turquoise water and white sand were spectacular!

The namesake - I think that the Cathedral Cove we visited in the Catlins on the South Island was more spectacular, but this is still a great example of erosion forces at work! Eventually this tunnel will collapse, and turn into a pillar.

Stingray Bay - wordless.

Chaos at Hot Water Beach. These guys must have been at work for a while to build a pool like that!

How is hot water beach hot? There are two springs, Maori and Orua, under the beach heated by hot volcanic intrusions from 5-9million years ago. Release of carbon dioxide causes the springs to bubble up through fractures in the underlying rock. If you dig a hole deep enough at low tide, you can reach this hot water (60-65C), and have a lovely soak.

River swimming hole off HWY 309

After about 60Km of riding, I had to stop at the river for a swim on the way home! Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach were both cool, but I think my favourite swim spot was the river of HWY 309. The water was clear and refreshing, and it was nice to relax in the water without being pushed around in the big surf. People say there are killer eels that lurk in the depths of the swimming hole – I wouldn’t be surprised if there are, but I luckily didn’t have an encounter.

Rainbow Valley Farm – Cheese, Cheer, & Compost

It’s been a wonderful month here at Rainbow Valley Farm. I’ve learned a lot, and have appreciated seeing an established “permaculture system” at work. We’ve been busy, but I’ll try to catch you up on all of it.

I also thought I would post a few pictures of the farm so you can get a better idea of where I’ve been.

Passive solar design of the main house makes it cool place to escape to in the hot hot heat! I love the turf roof

View of the left side of the garden from the roof of the main house. You can also see the orchard directly behind the garden, and the bush area extending up the other side of the valley.

Right side of the garden - I've spent lots of time weeding, mulching, and planting in here with Fran

Fran collecting sea grass

We spent an afternoon ‘working’ at the beach – collecting sea grass to use as garden mulch. As you can see, the tide was really low and the sun had dried out the sea grass so it was easy to go along and scoop it into our sacks. There were a few muddy patches though…

The Cheese

In the end I made feta using two different methods. The one I mentioned in my last post, which was by fermentation. The second was the more conventional method using starter cultures and rennet. Both turned out tasty despite some minor hiccups along the way! The fermented one had a milder flavour, but better texture, took longer to make, but was less work. I think the cultured one won on flavour, but it was a good chunk of a Sunday spent stirring, measuring, taking temperatures, and draining.

Equipment for the second round of cheese... 5Litres of raw milk ready to go

The final products - cubed fermented version in front, round cultured version at the back

Hot Compost

Fran has been working hard in the garden getting everything in order for the summer growing season, and producing lots of food for the upcoming courses. Every good garden needs good compost, so Tom and I decided to make a Hot Compost pile so Fran would have some extra compost to work with. Hot Compost works the same way a regular compost pile does, but it’s has a finished product in as little as 18 days instead of months.

The right ratio of green (nitrogen) to brown (carbon) is critical for success with Hot Compost - Tom and I collecting brown material in the fern grove

We layered up cow poop, brown material, kitchen scraps, and weeds in a one cubic meter pile. The pile gets so hot from all the bacterial action that most weed seeds are killed and it’s steamy when you turn it over. Every few days we’ve been turning it over and keeping it moist. It’s starting to look pretty good!

Compost now - about 14 days old

Russel and I had the honour of cleaning out the composting toilets. Actually, it wasn’t that bad. Unlike long drops or out houses, compost toilets don’t smell bad and the ‘finished product’ is pretty harmless. The farm uses a vermiculture system that is a lot like home worm farms for composting – each worm eats its own body weight in organic matter a day, and poops it out as a nutrient rich composted material. Obviously what we were digging out was not fresh, it had been sitting long enough for the worms to get their work done – a few months. Most people don’t use this compost directly in their gardens, but it is possible if you’ve let it cure enough to ensure that any pathogenic bacteria has been wiped out. There’s no problem putting it on perennials or in an orchard though.

Joc' shows us how it's done

The finished product. Looks like dirt to me!

The compost was put in the subtropical orchard and covered with saw dust as a mulch to keep the nutrients from getting washed away

The Ducklings

I’ve been looking after the poultry while I’ve been here, and lucky for me it’s been duckling season. The ducklings I told you about last time are doing really well, and have gotten quite big under the protection of Mr Gander.

One of the Muscovie ducks hatched six bright yellow fuzz balls two days ago. They’re so cute!

Mama and her ducklings

Unfortunately they’re also tasty. Stoats, eels, and ferral cats are on the hunt and took out half the pack within 24hrs. Down to three, we moved them into a chicken tractor where we hoped they would be safer.

Their new home in the chicken tractor, complete with pond

And then there were three

The Market

Every Saturday there is a Farmer’s Market in Matakana. The farm has a stall that sells produce, honey, fresh cut flowers, and organic crepes made to order. I’ve been helping out most weekends that I’ve been here, and it’s been sweet as – live music, lots of fresh local organic produce, friendly people, and delicious crepe snacks.

Part of our stall at the Matakana Farmer's Market

Hands down THE BEST oranges I've ever tasted! They're so sweet and juicy... yummy.

The Holiday Season!

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and don’t forget summer solstice! We celebrated Solstice at the farm with a magnificent feast so some people could spend Christmas with their families. Each of us made a special dish of delicious food. I made butter chicken from a recipe that Rob swears is the best…. and I started with the chicken.

Fran and Tom in the kitchen preparing for the feast

The table - we used canna lily leaves for plates so we would hav fewer dishes to wash

Appies! Scallops and Thai fish cakes on lemon grass skewer

Tom's mostly maggot free Camembert cheese, and Russel's gorgeus French loaves

Russel playing his Aussie role of "Baar-bie" Master

The main course- butter chicken, the best steak i've ever eaten, and a tasty stuffed squash

A couple of happy campers!

The final straw... Fran's (she's Italian) Tiramisu and Tom's (he's British) Mince Tart, and Fejio liquer

I slept well that night.

Christmas was a bit quieter, but just as lovely. It was my first Christmas away from home (*tear), but was bearable because the Farm and country weren’t swept away by Holiday Fever. It was also my first Christmas on a warm beach (Tofino doesn’t count). The water was so warm! Even saw Santa (or one of his elves) take a quick break for a surf.

Pikiri Beach - Christmas 2009

Me and my cape. I picked potatoes at noon (bad timing), and forgot to put sunscreen on my back - needless to say I got a bit burnt. The Cape did a good job of protecting my burn for the rest of the day.

Is that Santa!?

Wellington Wellington Wellington

Ooops! I almost forgot to tell write about Wellington. We spent about a week there wandering about, and it is a very cool city. The thing the stood out the most for me was the way they have designed their public spaces. Along downtown’s main streets there are lots of places to sit and admire the street art and people watch. It’s obvious that it is a city full of arts and culture.

Here are a few of my favourite public spots in Wellington:

A city that replaces a pedestrian overpass with a pirate ship earns lots of brownie points in my books!

I found this ingenious chicken nesting box at an installation featuring all recycled/reused materials. Caitlin and Lee Taylor created it, and called it "Chicks in Cyberspace"

I think more buildings should have pokadots

Rainbow Valley Farm – Flood, Feathers, Filth, and Feta

The Flood

Usually the stream flows through a culvert under the drive way... didn't quite fit this time

My first week on Rainbow Valley Farm coincided with monsoon rains. The first few days the mornings were pleasant, and just as we would sit down for our communal lunch the rains would begin. It was like clock work. It started with a little drizzle and quickly became torrential! Soon after we finished washing up the lunch dishes, the clouds would part and we could get back to work in the humid heat.

A few days later the rain settled in, and it poured for about three days. The last day was amazing! It was so loud that we had to raise our voices, and it just kept getting louder and wetter as the day progressed. The gutter above the door to my room got clogged, so by the middle of the night I had a waterfall shooting off the roof in front of my door! By noon the next day the property was starting to flood. Trish, the owner of the farm, said it was the biggest flood she’d seen on the property in over twenty years. The flooding was caused because the farm is situated in a steep valley. The ground became so saturated that the rain just ran off, and flooded the valley stream. Luckily the main house and wwoofery (housing for interns and wwoofers) were up high enough on the hill to not be affected. Just as quickly as the water had come up it subsided. The wood lot had been shifted a bit, the permanent tent was a little damp and silty, and the lower paddocks looked flattened. Amazingly none of the fences broke, the bridges held up, and nothing was shifted too far.

Tom checking on the fences

The Feathers

“Birds of a feather flock together,” doesn’t quite ring true on this farm. We’ve got chooks (chickens), ducks, geese, and guinea fowl all living a somewhat harmonious existence. One of the first tasks I was given was feeding the poultry and collecting the eggs. I quite enjoy it as a start and end to my day.

Chickens, ducks, and guinea fowl living together

Until recently, all of the poultry was totally free ranging on the farm, and most of them stuck to the orchards. It’s quite cute to walk through the orchard and around the wwoofery and find random and creatively placed nesting boxes that have now been abandoned. Having free range chickens in the orchard for over a decade began to take it’s toll as they had started to scratch down to the shallow rooting systems of the fruit trees, so things changed! The chickens were split into three groups – a chicken tractor, a flock for the hen house, and a small group to remain free ranging in the orchard. Some of the ducks joined the hens headed for the house, but the most of them and the guinea fowl and geese stayed in the orchard. Since the switch up the orchard has changed a lot. There is a new rhubarb patch, and lots of undergrowth growing back, and still benefiting from the bird poop fertilizer.

A favourite nesting box or a wood oven?

As with any barnyard, there is a love story to share. A few years ago Mrs Goose passed away, and Mr Gander was left heartbroken and lonely. Then one day his eye caught a sleek looking black duck named Victoria. It was love at first sight, and he has been at her side ever since. Victoria enjoys Mr Gander’s company alright, but she has been a bit promiscuous. Eight little ducklings were born just a few weeks ago, but Mr Gander seems to think they could only be his. He is very protective of them, and they’re growing very strong as a result. Meanwhile, Ms Goosey was introduced to the flock as a replacement for Mrs Goose. Smitten immediately with Mr Gander, Ms Goosey tends to spend her days following Mr Gander, Victoria, and their ducklings around – I have yet to decide whether it should be classified as stalking or just the nature of a protective aunt to the ducklings.
Mr Gander and Ms Goosey team up to be bullies at feeding time, and I’ve had a really hard time dealing with their behaviour. If they were simply being mean for the sake of it and stealing everyone else’s food then I suppose they could have been moved or isolated for a little bit. However, they’re only acting out of protection for the ducklings. Most of the other birds have realized this and stay a safe distance away from them at all times…. I think Mr Gander gets a little bit bored by their good behaviour and lashes out indiscriminately on occasion. He doesn’t respond when I tell him off.

The love triangle - Mr Gander, Victoria, Ms Goosey, and the ducklings

The Filth

Weeding the rice paddy is a dirty job

The hot and humid summers here make for good rice growing conditions. It is probably the only rice paddy in New Zealand, and produces almost enough to sustain the farm. They’ve been experimenting with annual versus perennial systems of growing rice. Although it is more common to grow rice on a small scale annually because it is a staple and yield has to be consistent for subsistence farmers, friends of the farm in Japan have insisted that their perennial rice has higher yield. The easy part of growing annual rice is that at the beginning of the season the paddy can be drained and thoroughly weeded, and then rice transplanted in, and ducks added to keep the weeds down and fertilize. The hard part about growing it perennially is that this weeding has to happen between the already establish rice plants, and more often… it’s a lot more work.

Hair of the Day Winner: Fran!

Off we went to weed the rice paddy! Honestly, I don’t think I even imagined spending time in a rice paddy, but it was quite enjoyable. Especially once I got the hang of keeping my legs wide enough to keep balance and limit how much I had to bend my back.

Fran ‘accidentally’ threw her handful of mud and weeds at Tom instead of the bank. From that point on there were random missiles of mud flying in every direction. We were filthy by the end of it, but my skin was softer!

Who should get the next mud bomb?

The Feta

Some of you may already know about my fascination with making my own cheese. Just before I left on this trip I bought a little starter kit, but decided to wait until I got back because I didn’t have enough time to finish it, and by that I mean eat it. It was just my luck that Joc, the farm’s people care manager, is an accomplish home cheese maker! Even though I’m only here for a month, it is more then enough time to make feta. YAY! One of the farm hands, James, regularily buys raw milk for his family and he was happy to fill a few bottles up for Tom and I. Tom made a MASSIVE block of camembert that is still curing, and I’ve made a wee little blob of feta. Today I’ll be taking it out of the mold and putting it in a brine solution for a week or so. Hopefully by then we’ll have some lovely tomatoes and cucumbers to make a big greek salad! Some ancient greek ancestor will be proud!

First step in making Feta: skim the cream off the milk, and to make butter and buttermilk

Wanaka to Fox Glacier

Wanaka Wanaka Wanaka

The drive from Queenstown to Wanaka was beautiful in a new New Zealand way. It felt like we drove through Summer Land, Peach Land, a little bit of Penticton, and a dash of Lilooet. 360 degrees of snow capped mountains and scrub bush and grasses.

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Almost at the top of the Diamond Lake trail... thank goodness!

Wanaka is a mellower Queenstown (sans $16 cocktails). There were a few cute businesses that made puns on the town’s name – “Wanakab” taxi service was my favourite.

Set on a beautiful lake, there are lots of hikes and bike trails in the area. We chose to do the Diamond Lake track up to a view of the mountains and lake. Known as “one of the most spectacular day hikes in New Zealand,” it was on private land, so there were lots of sheep around. I got an opportunity to work on my sheep communication skills – something anyone can be driven to when there are this many sheep around and so few people. Anyways, usually I don’t get much of a response from my “Ba-ahahaha-ing,” and I think it’s because of my accent. This time I got through to them though, but Miranda nearly abandoned me. I will be keeping the keys to the car for the next little while. 😉

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The view of Lake Wanaka from the top of the Diamond Lake trail

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A random beach on the way to Fox Glacier was lined with rock and drift wood sculptures - this little guy was just so cute

There is also this odd little place called Puzzling World in Wanaka. It was a puzzling place.. check out the toilets.

WTF... kinda cool in an incredibly tacky way

WTF... kinda cool in an incredibly tacky way

Fox Glacier

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View of Fox Glacier... if you squint your eyes you can see it turning up the valley

There are very few places in the world where you can walk directly from a temperate rain forest onto a glacier. At 13km long, 800m wide, and 150-300m deep – Fox Glacier is spectacular. It’s neighbour, Franz Josef Glacier, is very well known and more popular because until about 40 years ago the road stopped there, so it did not reach Fox. On my radar from beginning our trip to New Zealand, I talked to a lot of people about the difference between Fox and Franz Josepf glaciers, and which one I should explore. Most people told me they were pretty much the same, so it didn’t matter which one you did. However, after doing some Sherlock-Holmes-ing, I discovered that Fox is actually the cooler glacier to visit and the visually more spectacular.

What makes Fox Glacier so cool?

1. The valley that Fox Glacier is in has a sharp turn in it. This causes the glacier to slow down at the corner and get all squished up. Ice isn’t like playdoh, so squishing = big ass ice towers.

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Ice pick in hand - and towers behind. This was the highest up the glacier we got

2. The terminal face of Fox Glacier is too active and far to steep to hike onto directly,  so an hour hike along the valley side takes you up onto the glacier at a much higher point then on the Franz Joseph glacier. Benefit is that this means you get more time on ‘clean ice’.

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Blue ice tunnel

3. Fox Glacier Guides take you along the top of the glacier versus along the bottom of crevasses. Both are probably cool, but I can only handle looking at ice walls on either side of me for so long.

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Had to ham it up a bit

4. Okay, this one is a little dorky. Fox is receding, and because the the glacier is accessible from the side, you get to see some very cool glacial features. Like recession arches.

compression arch

Compression arch coolness... hah!

Overall, I’m sure that doing a hike on Fox or Franz Josef glacier would be awe inspiring, but I’m happy with my decision to go with the under dog. After nearly seven hours on the ice, I was exhausted  and exhilarated! So cool to see something that has carved out so much the planet’s geography up close and personal.

fox 2

Fox Glacier

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On the terminal face! 75 years ago the terminal face was at that big vertical rock face in the background of this picture

fox 7

Talk about a tunnel! This one was sooo cool. Officially called a "moulin" and carved out by water

fox 3

I felt like spider man in my crampons - climb anything anywhere!

The Milford Road, Routeburn, and on to Queenstown

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The Milford Road - looking back

The Milford Road

We witnessed Milford Sound with spectacularly clear skies on the morning we left for Queenstown. Miranda and I agreed that Milford was more majestic with the fog and rain.

The long and twisty road from Milford to Te Anau was beautiful, and a little scary at times. The Homer Tunnel was particularly ‘fun’. It was built in the 1950’s to complete the road, and it goes straight through a big mountain. Only wide enough for one lane of traffic, there is a set of lights at each end. Often tunnels wind around corners, but this one actually dips down!

road 2

Looking back as we approach the Homer Tunnel

road 3

We couldn't help but stop at the Mirror Lakes one last time.

road 4

Suprisingly the reflection looked more amazing then the real thing

road 5

Where mountains meet water

Queenstown

queenstown 1

View of the lake as we drive into town

Queenstown is full of every extreme sport you can think of.  Neither of us being adrenaline junkies, we took the opportunity to explore some of the trails and scenery. A grueling hike up to the Skyline Gondola, turned out to be a bit of fun. At the top there was a free chair lift ride. It wasn’t very long, but had great views of the lake and town.

queenstown 2

All smiles on the free chair lift!

We also got in our first bungy jump! HAH! Fooled you… we didn’t actually participate in the action, but we did get to watch a girl take the leap of faith off a platform sticking out of the side of the mountain – right out over the city! Crazy….

Routeburn

routeburn 1

I love the thick mat of moss as the forest floor that you can see in this photo

A great drive through the country side to Glenorchy took us to the start of the Routeburn Track – another of the Great Walks. We did a day hike up to the Routeburn Falls Hut – lots of swing bridges, and views of the river. Once up at the Falls Hut, it was amazing to look down on the flats.

routeburn 2

Lots of swing bridges! Some more swingy then others

routeburn 3

How many beautiful rivers? Endless

routeburn 4

Miranda's camera has a cool setting where you can pick one colour to highlight - this one shows just how turquoise the water is

routeburn 6

A well named creek if I ever saw one

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View from the Falls Hut down onto the Routeburn Flats

routeburn 8

Just as we were heading back, a helicopter flew in over our heads and landed on the near by platform. Very cool to see one flying so close - also somewhat terrifying... and of course produced fits of giggles captured here

Miranda’s Vlogs!

I don’t know why I didn’t post these sooner! Instead of blogging, Miranda has been video blogging or “vlogging” our trip. They’re awesome, so enjoy!

June Adventures

September Fun

October Travels